Category Archives: not really

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Arrived at last

The trip this time was uneventful, thank goodness! We got to the Indigo Hotel in good time and were able to snooze a bit. After our showers, we got an uber with a cheerful man who deposited us at the entrance to Holyrood Palace, and our trip finally began.

The Queen’s private apartments were open for the first (and maybe only?) time, in recognition of of her centenary this year. The rooms seemed comfortable and almost homey. The art was very appealing, mostly English and Scottish artists. We saw where the queen worked daily on her famous red boxes (where she monitored government reports and signed official documents) while watching the horse racing; and her dressing room where her many, many purses, dresses and hats were on display. We also noticed the dog bowls on the floor. The corgis must be fed! Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures, so I will track down some images instead.

As you can see, the apartments were warm, filled with art, and made for conversations.

Exit through the gift shop and back to the Indigo, after a quick stop at a local electronics place that found me the cord for my hearing aids to replace the one I stepped on at the end of our flight. I insisted that we have a drink at the Guildford Arms, which Sam, Sarah and I stumbled onto when we were in Edinburgh before the wedding. The crowd was cheerful and busy, and we admired the ceilings while we watched the people (and dogs). Dinner at the Indigo, and so to bed.

Thursday the 3rd

Baby time! This was a highlight of the trip, featuring the three Carolines together for the first time. We took the train to Glasgow, then transferred to a bus to Strathaven. (Meanwhile, it’s pronounced Straven or some such!)

It’s too complicated to explain, but we didn’t find the right connection to Strathaven despite our best intentions, casting up and down the road, even finding a sign marked “temporary bus stop,” but still no bus. We finally caved and booked an Uber at some expense to get us there at a decent time. But it was well worth it!

Cai walked us to a local coffee shop for lunch and a catch-up on what her life and jobs are doing. Back home, she toured us through the house, which was delightful, filled with books, art and baby things, while the garden has some lovely flowers and fruit. When Daniel returned from the baby’s swimming lesson, we all cooed over the most beautiful baby ever! (pix to come)

All good things come to an end, so Cai motored us to the actual bus stop we should have taken on the way here. Blowing kisses to the baby (who was gnawing on my fingers with great intensity – teething?), we returned to the train station and our hotel. Dinner at the Indigo again, then packing for York.

Friday the 4th – onward to York

It’s very convenient having the train station just a few steps away from the hotel. We loaded up our bags and embarked on our next journey, through the mostly flat (?) country from Edinburgh to York. We had last been there thirty-plus years ago and were looking forward to seeing it all again.

This time we had an apartment in York, close to everything we wanted to see. It was a short walk to the Shambles, good bookstores, and, of course, the walls. We settled in, with an upstairs where we could eat dinner and enjoy the views of the cathedral, and a downstairs where we could bathe, read, and still enjoy the cathedral views.

We had plans for each day, some easy and some more packed. Our first day was

Wednesday

W booked a tour with Martin, a retired police detective! luckily, he did not find anything wrong with us, so we proceeded. He drove us to Bingley, where a series of locks allows people to travel around 200<?>miles down the locks. We ran into a scruffy guy who lived on his boat (and perhaps failed to bathe very often), and heard a bit about life on a boat. We stopped for a cup of coffee, admired the lock and then moved on.

We stopped at the train station that was using a steam engine, this year only! This made Martin very happy, and I must say that we were intrigued, too.

From here we went to

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Posted on September 7, 2026 in not really

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On the way to Scotland and England

A bit of a bad start at home when I got tangled up in google passwords. Luckily, Michael was kind enough to help me, and I think I’m okay now. We shall see!

Our flight leaves at 9:30 p.m., so we are planning on an early-ish dinner and then going to sleep. We have Economy Plus seats which are pretty comfortable, so maybe we will arrive feeling pretty okay.

Guess what! It was a total disaster. We arrived on time, but then learned that the scheduled plane was to be three-plus hours late (until around 1:00 a.m.), because the new plane was on its way from Florida to Dulles. Finally, at around 2:00 in the morning, we boarded. Economy Plus is no longer two seats side by side but three in a row. Nevertheless, we had two aisle seats and thought we were in pretty good shape. Not so fast!

After about twenty minutes, the pilot came on the intercom to say that we were heading back to Dulles! He was a man of few words, but the flight attendant explained that there was a problem with the doors and/or a fire safety issue. We came back to Dulles to find a ton of fire engines, lights flashing, as we dutifully stayed in our seats. Finally, we were told to get off the plane, taking our belongings with us.

You can imagine the people swirling around the terminal, trying to get information from the desk, everyone lining up to find out what our options were. And soon after that the pilot came on the intercom to say that the crew was now leaving because they were over the time limits. Abandon ship!!

We were eventually told that the flight had indeed been cancelled. Soon after, we were told that we could get vouchers for our meals and then return to the airport tomorrow night (Tuesday) to get on a new plane, leaving at 6:30 p.m. All our belongings will be on the new plane, and all we have to do is show up. We’ll see how that works out.

Thanks to Alison’s persistence, we wandered through the airport until we found the exit, so tired that we had to hang onto each other as we trundled along, totally gaga, to the Marriott (high price be damned), and got into bed around 5:30. We had no change of clothes and very few toiletries (unless you were Alison, who kindly shared with me) and just fell dead asleep for the next six+ hours.

We woke up to discover that there was no water in the shower and only cold water in the sink! We went downstairs to find out what they could do for us. Fortunately, we had a savvy Marriott person, plus Alison, who never gives up, and they reduced the rate from the insanely high amount to a more reasonable $159. Breakfast/lunch next, partially paid by our vouchers. After lunch we returned to the room to find the water had been restored. Good things come to those who wait!

The worst part is the day we’ve lost. Our original plan was that we would arrive at the hotel and drop our bags, hang out at the nearby Waterstones’, and then go back for a nap and an early dinner, with the following day scheduled for the Royal Yacht, followed by visiting the Queen’s apartments at Holyrood Palace. That’s now out the window, but we’ll see if we can salvage parts of it on our return trip to Edinburgh. Could be worse?!!

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Posted on September 1, 2026 in not really

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And now for something completely different!

Our journey to London coincided with Ladies Day at Ascot, and I loved seeing how everyone racing for their trains had dressed for the event!

And then there’s this very harassed-looking woman who’s wearing sensible shoes and racing to her train!

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Posted on October 4, 2025 in not really

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Our old stomping grounds

Yes, we’re back in England! We splurged on a BA flight in business class, and it was so worth it. We both slept fairly well, were able to stretch out, and, almost as good, enjoyed eating on real plates and drinking out of real glasses. We took the Heathrow Express to Paddington, got the train to Bath, and arrived at our lovely little flat with no trouble. Well, except for fumbling with the key box, but luckily a pair of young women passing by helped to figure it out. (This need for help may be a recurring theme, get ready!)

After a trip to Sainsbury’s to stock up on essentials, we had a wee supper and soon were in bed.

Today was cool and cloudy with peeks of sun, perfect walking weather. We had a leisurely morning before setting off for Bath Abbey and a lovely tour of a building that’s seen plenty of history over the past few centuries. It’s famous for this fan vaulting, quite stunning.

Our guide touched on the most important dates, which helped to set the stage for everything from the founding of the abbey pre-1000 A.D., to the dissolution of the monasteries (thanks, C.J. Sansom, for your novels about same), to the WWII damage to the stained glass. I had not known that they called the German bombings in this part of the world the “Baedeker bombings,” because the Germans wanted to target the most popular religious and tourist sites. This stained glass window honors the damaged windows that were restored in 1951.

The guide was pleased to show us an American flag on display (with only 48 stars) that marked the English thanks to the Americans for our part in the war, along with plaques that commemorated several American friends of England. Among these was one honoring a Mr. Bingham, whose history as a businessman, entrepeneur and senator is almost forgotten these days. Binghamton, NY, for example, was named for him. But I digress.

After a quick visit to the loo (twinned with Zambia!), we stopped by the gift shop and then wandered over to Sally Lunn’s, the oldest restaurant in town (as in, 15th century, or so they say). Narrow, twisting stairs up to the second floor led to a cozy room filled with tourists like us. The salmon and cream cheese and the Welsh rarebit were both delicious, and not heavy at all. A nice treat.

Then off to Topping’s bookstore (we’ve been to the one in Ely before) for another treat. Of course, most of the books I longed to buy were too big to fit into the suitcase, but I did find a small book about flat lands in England that I am looking forward to reading over the next weeks.

Then a visit to the post office to turn in old money for new, in my case an old 20 pound note for a new one, but still featuring the queen rather than Charles. The young man at the post office was quite helpful.

Home for a nap and a nip of wine, and then off to the Green Street Brasserie for a pub dinner. And so to bed.

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Posted on June 19, 2024 in a little drama, churches, England, not really

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Welcome to Cuba!

Yes, Americans can visit Cuba – as long as you are there “in support of the Cuban people.” Which we were – Biffy and Ed, Sam and Sarah, Sam’s Sarah, Joseph and his friend Cathy, and me. We got our paperwork in order in Miami and, despite my anxiety about making the connection on time, it all worked and we’re all here!

My first sight of Cuba from the plane featured lots of lush green scenery and palm trees. (Royal palms, the national tree, are everywhere.) We made our way through the slow lines to be vetted (passport control and security) and were finally sent on our way. We got on the little bus that will be carrying us about and heard a lot about Cuba from our guide, Edelso, who would prove to be terrific.

Then to our hotel, which is lovely (though with steep stairs, luckily with sturdy railings). We were met by the incomparable Marta, the boss and general factotum of the place, with a small glass of a delicious pineapple rum drink (a theme) and sweeping views from the outside deck. Across from us is an old shabby Soviet era apartment block which has clearly seen better days,

but otherwise the area is filled with nicely maintained houses and gardens, and there’s a view of the ocean just beyond.

I have a room of my own with a lovely shower, air conditioning, and two double beds

And there’s wifi though it doesn’t seem to be very robust (this proved to be an understatement!). This will be just right as a base for our trip.

Our group is led by Cressie, one of the five lawyers who worked together on a big civil rights case back in the ’80s. They get together every couple years, and thus this trip. Cressie is a lowkey guy, very knowledgeable about Cuba, where he’s visited numerous times over the last seven or eight years. This was his first trip back since the pandemic, and he noticed that many things have changed: shortages, way fewer tourists, more blackouts, etc. But he has arranged a wonderful array of visits and experiences for us.

We had dinner at the hotel (with this iconic image of Hemingway on the wall),

and then Marta told us about some logistics, including what to do about money (both Euros and dollars are universally accepted, so no need to change), and how to maintain the plumbing (don’t flush toilet paper, place it in the little container next to the toilet, something we encountered everywhere).

The company is good, the venue is lovely, and tomorrow we start our adventures!

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Posted on January 1, 2023 in not really

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A fort, an introduction, a monkey

Posted on May 3, 2020 | 2 comments

Today was our first full day together, and it was a good one!  After breakfast – a buffet filled with delicious Indian food as well as hearty English fare – we piled into two minibuses for our morning out to the Amber Fort (above pic is from the bus).  We transferred at the bottom of the hill to several jeeps for the steep ride up.

But first, a famous step well, built 400 years  ago to collect water during the rainy season. The structure is well-known for its Escher-like stairs.  Some claim that you can’t go up and down using the same set of stairs unless you’re a local. I didn’t dare try!  Another view:

It was also a gathering place for women (as it was for us!). 

Carol and Caron sitting in one of the little gazebos at the top.

And of course, the ubiquitous monkeys.

Back in the jeeps for the final stretch up the steep hill to the fort or palace, another UNESCO World Heritage Site and an example of Mughal-Indian architecture.  Once inside, you enter a series of beautiful courtyards.  (Thanks, Getty images.)

We met our guide who explained the fort to us, though between the noise of the crowds and his strong accent,  it was not terribly illuminating. There are three palaces here, winter, summer and monsoon, where the princesses lived. No man was allowed in except for the king. Again, we marvelled at beautiful carvings and painted walls. Inside the palaces were more decorated walls, the winter palace with inserted mirrors to reflect the light on cold winter days.  This one featured sparkling inlaid glass in intricate patterns.

and more beautiful carvings and decorations.

And looking up from the fort, long walls along the ridgeline to keep out…someone?

Elephants were seen everywhere, including in real life (though one is advised not to take a ride for the sake of the animals’ health).

It was a fascinating site, though I felt very much like a tourist. But it’s a great memory to invoke when I next read about the Mughals.

On our way back, here’s a glimpse of the small town of Amer from our jeep.  I was trying to capture the incredible traffic and the millions of small food stands and shops though I missed the elephant lumbering along, so you must just imagine it. 

After the Amber fort we stopped by a bookstore with an interesting selection. I’m really liking the Dalrymple book so hope to read more of him when I get home.  Here we are waiting for the rest of the group:  Pamela, Janice, Marty, Carol, Lucie, Caron and Cathy.After all this glory, we took the minibuses back to the Trident for lunch and a brief break. After lunch we each introduced ourselves to the group. There were many stories to tell (some on the bus ride from Agra, and some here):   Pati and her benign optic nerve tumor,  Sujata and her recovery from breast cancer, Amy and her year of refocusing that included a decision to stop designing fabric, Ginger and her story of finding her true love in Saskatchewan, et al.  It is an amazing group of women!

At this point, we were supposed to visit the Jaipur Literary Festival (William Dalrymple is one of the organizers!), but Sujata and Amy got word that it would involve big crowds and lots of waiting in line, so instead we went into Jaipur and visited the Patrika Gate.

This is a modern tourist attraction that opens out to a park right in the middle of Jaipur.  The arches and ceilings are covered with beautifully detailed paintings of local heroes, sites and mythology.

As always, the patterns and colors were mesmerizing, and I couldn’t stop taking pictures.

After this, we stopped by a local crafts area that was here as part of the Pink City Festival. 

The craft booths were mildly interesting, but this creepy monkey man was the most memorable. 

He just looks odd here, and people are certainly laughing, but he was very creepy, and some of the children were really scared of him.  He scurried around just like a monkey and tried to steal things from people.  I think he must have been a version of Hanuman.

Our final stop was to a popup shop that catered to the not-me audience, lovely things like shoes, purses and clothes, but I was really dead on my feet by now.  Home, late dinner and then fell into bed.  A rich, full day!

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Wildlife and exoticism

Posted on February 24, 2020 | Leave a comment

This was not a nature trip, but you can’t help noticing the animals everywhere in India.  In my neighborhood I’m likely to see cats, dogs and squirrels, along with robins, wrens, finches, woodpeckers, chickadees, hawks, etc.  But here was a new array of everyday creatures!

Dogs are hardly unusual, but they were everywhere in the streets, never on a leash or seeming to belong to anyone.  This one was enjoying the sunshine while stretched out on block-printed fabric drying in Bagru. 

They appeared healthy and were beautifully behaved, so I asked one of our guides who took care of them.  He said that when you made your chapatis in the morning, you made one for the dog, and when you made your chapatis in the evening, you made one for the cow.  I’m not sure if that was metaphorical or literal…

There were several kinds of cows, some dairy cows and some not. 

This dairy cow was strolling through Bagur.

This beauty was surrounded by words that I can’t decipher.

And this one seems to have been decorated?

Monkeys were ubiquitous, climbing up telephone poles, along the rooftops, and hanging from wires. 

These monkeys were outside of the vegetable market in Jaipur.

This one was strolling along among the tourists at the Taj Mahal.

This monkey is posing with a kite at the step well. (Kite flying is a huge pastime in Jaipur, and we saw these tiny kites in the sky all the time, especially at the end of the day.  When they coat the strings with powdered glass for competitions, they can be a danger to people and especially to birds, but it is beautiful to watch them soar.)

This mama and baby were climbing above electrical wires in the spice market in Delhi.  We were cautioned not to play with them or feed them, and, fascinating though they were, I wasn’t tempted.

We saw a few elephants thumping along the streets, but the only one I captured with my camera is this one, decorated for tourists, along the lake.

Cathy is paying the driver for permission to pet it.

Camels were seen more often, usually as beasts of burden but for tourists, too.  Here’s a glimpse of one in the street in Sanganer that carried a load on its back.

This one was waiting for customers down the road from our hotel who could be tempted into a ride.

But the creepiest of all was this human monkey.  He was roaming around in a craft market we visited.  If I had managed to get a video, you would have seen just how awful he was, coming up behind people and grabbing their bags, racing along on all fours like a real monkey, and in general behaving like a scary creature that’s supposed to be funny.  I think he might have been a representation of Hanuman, a god who is “generally depicted as a man with the face of a monkey and a long tail.”  Although the people in these pictures are laughing, there were a couple of children in tears.

Finally, a note on exoticism.  It’s defined as “the charm of the unfamiliar,” but it can also be a way of distancing yourself from what you are seeing.  In a culture as different from mine as India is, I’m afraid that some of what I saw was just that:  a strange and fascinating way of life that I don’t really understand.  But I’m trying!

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Posted in India, not really, wildlife