Yes, we’re back in England! We splurged on a BA flight in business class, and it was so worth it. We both slept fairly well, were able to stretch out, and, almost as good, enjoyed eating on real plates and drinking out of real glasses. We took the Heathrow Express to Paddington, got the train to Bath, and arrived at our lovely little flat with no trouble. Well, except for fumbling with the key box, but luckily a pair of young women passing by helped to figure it out. (This need for help may be a recurring theme, get ready!)
After a trip to Sainsbury’s to stock up on essentials, we had a wee supper and soon were in bed.
Today was cool and cloudy with peeks of sun, perfect walking weather. We had a leisurely morning before setting off for Bath Abbey and a lovely tour of a building that’s seen plenty of history over the past few centuries. It’s famous for this fan vaulting, quite stunning.
Our guide touched on the most important dates, which helped to set the stage for everything from the founding of the abbey pre-1000 A.D., to the dissolution of the monasteries (thanks, C.J. Sansom, for your novels about same), to the WWII damage to the stained glass. I had not known that they called the German bombings in this part of the world the “Baedeker bombings,” because the Germans wanted to target the most popular religious and tourist sites. This stained glass window honors the damaged windows that were restored in 1951.
The guide was pleased to show us an American flag on display (with only 48 stars) that marked the English thanks to the Americans for our part in the war, along with plaques that commemorated several American friends of England. Among these was one honoring a Mr. Bingham, whose history as a businessman, entrepeneur and senator is almost forgotten these days. Binghamton, NY, for example, was named for him. But I digress.
After a quick visit to the loo (twinned with Zambia!), we stopped by the gift shop and then wandered over to Sally Lunn’s, the oldest restaurant in town (as in, 15th century, or so they say). Narrow, twisting stairs up to the second floor led to a cozy room filled with tourists like us. The salmon and cream cheese and the Welsh rarebit were both delicious, and not heavy at all. A nice treat.
Then off to Topping’s bookstore (we’ve been to the one in Ely before) for another treat. Of course, most of the books I longed to buy were too big to fit into the suitcase, but I did find a small book about flat lands in England that I am looking forward to reading over the next weeks.
Then a visit to the post office to turn in old money for new, in my case an old 20 pound note for a new one, but still featuring the queen rather than Charles. The young man at the post office was quite helpful.
Home for a nap and a nip of wine, and then off to the Green Street Brasserie for a pub dinner. And so to bed.
Caroline's Garden and Travel Record 